By Kate Ryan, Flavour.ie
2023 was a year defined by food shortages, a meltdown in the horticulture sector, a restaurant industry buckling under a reintroduction of a 13% VAT rate, continued staff shortages in hospitality and a cost-of-living crisis that saw everyone with less expendable income in their pockets.
But we still ate well, and Ireland continues to punch above its weight in terms of the food we produce and the quality of our chefs and restaurants.
Chefs talk. For all their focused energy driven into every single service, what they do is always more than the food placed prettily upon the plate. They are activists and thinkers, sensitive to the slightest change in guests’ behaviour, expectation, spending power, and minutia of what’s important when they sit down to dine.
So, if 2023 was a whirlwind of challenges with endless demands to adapt, the best place to go to ask what the future of food in 2024 will look like is to those same chefs.
Ahmet Dede, Head Chef, Dede at The Customs House
Earlier this year, Ahmet picked up a second Michelin star for his culinary fusion of Turkish and Irish food at his Baltimore restaurant. He’s fired up with ambition for a third star, for sure, but there is also change in the wind…
“Food in 2024? Food is like fashion – it always needs to keep changing and evolving but the one thing we’ll never change for me is delicious and unique as possible so that who we are is different to everyone else: a Turkish Fusion restaurant.
But I also think the food will become more accessible for people with the ongoing cost of living crisis, energy crisis and wars around the world. I think this will be the biggest change in the next year. For us, we’ll still be a fine dining restaurant and the pricing will be the same, but I’d love to have another restaurant where I can cook food that people can come and visit every day. The kind of style of food that’s accessible for all day eating. I think that’s the way to go for a more sustainable food scene, and how it’s going to be in 2024.”
Eunice Power, Restauranteur and Food Champion, … And Chips
One of Ireland’s pioneering event caterers, food champion, advocate for local and sustainable food, and owner of And Chips in Dungarvan, Eunice Power has lived and worked through all the triumphs and challenges of Ireland’s hospitality sector and lived to tell the tale. Her mantra is use the best quality ingredients that are Irish and seasonal wherever possible – whether that’s large-scale event catering, bespoke private chef experiences, or cooking up a really great fish fry.
“The future of Irish food is bright. We have, undoubtedly, some of the best produce in the world and I would love to see consumers making more thoughtful choices around sourcing food and making conscious decisions to buy seasonal Irish food.
As a business owner I face daily challenges, rising costs and shortage of manpower which will make the current restaurant model challenging to sustain. The culture of eating out has shifted since the pandemic, with all of this in mind I expect we will see a massive shift in our industry in the coming year.”
Aishling Moore, Chef-Proprietor, Goldie Fish & Ale
Moore’s pioneering gill to fin, all-catch approach to fish and seafood continues to excite the Irish food scene for a population that was all but divorced from its love of marine produce. She has held a Michelin Bib Gourmand since XXXX, was named Young Chef of the Year by Food & Wine Magazine, judged the prestigious Euro-Toques Young Chef of the Year competition, and next year will release her first book. Moore thinks deeply about the sustainability of seafood, so her predictions for the year ahead should be heeded.
“2024 is sure to be an interesting year for food. Regenerative Aquaculture I believe will be the future of how we are going to consume seafood. It’s a no brainer. Mussels and oysters are great examples – not only do they provide us with a viable food source which requires very little resources to produce, but it also rehabilitates the ocean.
Regenerative Aquaculture sequesters carbon and nitrogen from the environment. I believe we will be consuming foods with more added value – environmental value; foods you can feel good about eating.
In 2024, with all that we are about to face in terms of inflation, there will be a huge focus on supporting local producers and we will have a responsibility to preserve our heritage and food culture.
And, if you haven’t already realised that tinned fish is happening, brace yourself! No refrigeration needed, great packaging and traceability from well managed fisheries with sustainable fishing methods.”
Sam Moody, Chef-Proprietor, Bramley
Formerly of Ballyfin Demesne, Moody left this prestigious venue to go it alone and follow his lifelong dream to open his own neighbourhood restaurant with his wife, Emily. Not only has he achieved this with a growing cohort of well-received reviews, but the ambition extends to growing his own food as well as cooking it. At a time when horticulture is an industry on the rope in Ireland, chefs are having to think outside the box to ensure that they can source seasonal Irish produce. And if that means getting your own hands dirty in the soil, so be it…
“Bramley is a neighbourhood restaurant on Main Street, Abbeyleix. In the six months we have been open we have been well received by community; building a guest book of regular diners who join us for causal meals to big family celebrations and special occasions. This was exactly what we had hoped for with Bramley, to become a part of the community and is reflected in our offering – a nightly A La Carte, Tasting, or Simple Supper menus.
Our menus, food and service are hyper seasonal. Dishes change frequently to reflect the very best of what is available with quality at the forefront of all choices. We are lucky to be in the Garden of Ireland and have abundant choice. Alongside the restaurant we are (slowly) creating a Kitchen Garden where we will grow vegetables, fruits, and flowers all for use in Bramley. Our semi-walled garden was unloved for many years, so we have begun with the soil. We commissioned three pigs from Fiorbhia Farm to root and turn the soil eating tubers, grass roots and then enriching the soil behind them. From this foundation we are taking a no-dig approach which will restore and encourage the mycorrhizal development in the soil.
Looking forward we will continue to focus on the quality of our ingredients and cooking delivered with relaxed and friendly service. As ever, but perhaps more so in 2024, it will be vital to pay close attention to the people in the dining room and be open to feedback from our patrons. We want to be a restaurant for our community so it’s vital we reflect what they need from a restaurant.”
Shauna Murphy, Euro-Toques Young Chef of the Year 2023, Chef de Partie Terre
At only 26 years old, Ms Murphy stole the hearts and appetites of the Euro-Toques judges this year with her elegant food showcasing the best of Irish produce. Currently earning her stripes in the brigade as part of chef-patron Vincent Crepel’s Michelin team in Terre, she also comes with plentiful experience in working in some of the top fine dining establishments in the country – namely, Ashford Castle and Adare Manor.
“Vegetarian food is becoming more popular by the minute, and although I don’t think I could transition to fully vegetarian myself I do find myself eating less meat. Sometimes the vegetables can be the star on the plate, and we don’t need to eat as much meat as we think we do. Even from the point of view of the environment we need to learn to protect what we have, and we can do that often by sourcing local food produced with less air miles. Supporting local producers also helps communities.
There is growing interest in Latin American cuisine. Ireland has a big Brazilian community, and the food of this country is amazing. A great gateway Brazilian dish, I think, is Coxinhas – they are so good! Coxinhas are little deep-fried balls of shredded chicken with potatoes and cream cheese; a really delicious treat.”
Eddie Attwell, Executive Head Chef, Eccles Hotel & Spa
The shortage of young chefs coming into the industry has gone past being an inconvenient problem. Eddie Attwell, who has always championed the benefits of chef-to-chef mentorship, is investing in inspiring a new generation of chefs.
“The future of food lies solely in food education from growing to serving. I’ve said before that I grow my own veg, but I also grown my own chefs! Colleges are key to feeding well trained chefs to the industry and bridging the shortage in skills which is proving damaging to our industry.
Without producing or own food and using the land and seas and shore around us, we face being pulled into the panic of shortage when we simply must retrain ourselves backwards and use the best of what’s around us.”
Conor Spacey, Executive Head Chef at Food Space
Conor Spacey is Ireland’s leading Zero Waste chef and a member of Chef’s Manifesto, an UN-backed chef-led advocacy group made up of chefs from around the world exploring how to help deliver a sustainable food system. In 2023, Conor released his first book, Wasted, widely received as an invaluable primer for chefs and home cooks alike to navigate irradicating food waste.
“With an increase in awareness of our food system over the last two years, I see 2024 as a year where consumers are more connected to the food they buy and eat. There is more information at our fingertips to guide us on how and where to spend our money and support farmers and producers working hard to ensure our food is not only good for us but also for the planet.
This is not just about organic foods but also regenerative farming, a system of food production that improves our soil and, in turn, improves our carbon outputs.”
Seáneen Sullivan, co-owner of L. Mulligan Grocer, Chef and Sommelier
Seáneen Sullivan is a vibrant activist in championing Irish food and drink. She is a chef and co-owner of L. Mulligan Grocer in Stoneybatter, founder of Mistresses of Malt, and food scholar with a particular interest in food systems and sustainability.
“It is no secret that we are living in a time of climate change and the impact on our food system is tremendous and happening at a pace quicker than many people expected. In 2024 the need for sustainable food and sustainable food systems is becoming more urgent but I am optimistic that as chefs and food producers we can come together to achieve this in a way that is joyful.
I think it is about focusing on celebrating and championing our producers and farmers who are producing food in a sustainable and ethical way, especially our brave and resilient vegetable farmers. Decarbonising our food system, fostering biodiversity and reducing waste are essential parts of the future of food in 2024. I would also love to see a minister for food!”
Darina Allen, Chef, Author and Founder of Ballymaloe Cookery School and Organic Farm School
Darina Allen is the co-founder of the world-famous Ballymaloe Cookery School and author of more than 20 cookery books. This year, she opened her latest enterprise: Ballymaloe Organic Farm School, bringing together a lifetime of learning, advocacy, food, farming and health to share with the world.
“There needs to be an urgent realisation that we are sleepwalking into a major health and future of food crisis. Despite the perception that Ireland is a food secure country, we are importing 90% plus of our flour, between a third and half of fruit and vegetables and almost two-thirds of fish and seafood.
Many farmers who produce our food, particularly vegetable and fruit growers are in crisis. Already a large number have packed it in, others are barely holding on. We’ll be fortunate if there are more than two or three commercial vegetable growers still in business here in Ireland within a year or two.
The reality is that they are not being paid a fair and equitable price for their produce to enable them to invest in their business or to produce nourishing, wholesome food. Whether we like it or not, the unpalatable truth is that the cheap food policy is a disaster both in health and socio-economic terms. A very difficult dilemma during this cost-of-living crisis.
We urgently need to support, encourage and rebuild local food systems, invest in growing skills and make rebuilding the fertility of the soil a priority. To quote Lady Eve Balfour, one of the founders of the Soil Association “The health of the soil, plant, animal and man are one and indivisible.” Our health comes directly from the soil. It would be a game changer if farmers were paid on the nutrient density of the food produced rather than volume.
I was brought up to believe our food should be our medicine and understood that unless we put the effort into nourishing, wholesome food on the table, we would give the money to the doctor or the chemist. Every bite of food we eat has consequences for both our physical and mental health. So, why not pay the farmer to keep us well rather than the doctor to cure us.
We all need to become food activists and resolve to make it a priority to source fresh, seasonal, chemical-free, sustainably produced produce rather than ultra-processed food, much of which is damaging rather than enhancing our health.
Let’s stop waiting for someone else to do it. Each of us can make a difference and be the change we want to see.”